From Milan to the Matterhorn
Our European winter adventure blended iconic art, Olympic energy, and unforgettable alpine views. From standing in front of The Last Supper in Milan to skiing beneath the Matterhorn in Zermatt, it was a week that balanced culture, logistics, and pure mountain magic. Here’s exactly how it unfolded — with kids in tow.
Day 1: Arrival in Milan & The Last Supper
We landed in Milan knowing our entire first day revolved around one thing: seeing The Last Supper inside Santa Maria delle Grazie.
And if this is on your list, here’s the truth: securing tickets is the hardest part of the experience.
Tickets are released in quarterly blocks and they sell out quickly — often within hours. I set an alarm for 4 a.m. our time to log in the minute they opened. You’ll select a specific timed entry slot, and that time is strict. Groups enter in small waves because the room is climate-controlled to preserve the fresco.
A few key things I learned:
Have an account created ahead of time on the official ticketing site.
Be logged in and ready before release time.
Have passport information available when booking.
If tickets are sold out, check every Wednesday around noon (Milan time) — additional small batches are often released.
If you prefer less stress, guided tour operators sometimes hold blocks of tickets, but you’ll pay a premium.
You need to arrive at least 30 minutes before your scheduled time. There is a separate ticket office/check-in building to the left of the church entrance — do not line up directly at the main church doors.
Inside that building:
You present your printed ticket (I recommend printing even if you have digital).
Every adult must show a passport that matches the ticket name.
If you booked a guided option, you’ll receive a headset device.
Bags are screened and large items must be stored.
You’re then escorted in timed groups through a series of climate-controlled chambers before entering the room itself. The buildup actually adds to the experience — it feels intentional and protected. Once inside, you have about 15 minutes with the painting. That’s it. And surprisingly? It feels like enough.
The room is quiet. Controlled. Focused. The kids stood longer than I expected. There’s something powerful about knowing you’re looking at something painted in the 1400s that has survived wars, humidity, and centuries of history.
One important tip: There is a small gift shop connected to the exit, but you cannot re-enter once you leave, and you cannot access it without a ticket. If you want something, buy it before walking out. I didn’t — and regretted it later.
From there, we shifted from quiet reverence to full architectural drama at the Milan Duomo.
We had pre-booked lift tickets to the rooftop terraces (highly recommend during busy seasons). Your time slot applies only to the elevator ride up — you can visit the cathedral interior before or after, even 1 day after.
If I were doing it again, I’d:
Arrive 60–90 minutes before terrace time.
Visit the cathedral interior and crypt first.
Then head to the rooftop 15 minutes before your lift slot.
Instead, we went straight up — jet-lagged but determined — and the marble spires against the sky felt almost unreal.
We ended the evening wandering through Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, spinning on the bull mosaic for good luck and grabbing dinner with Duomo views.
It was a full first day. Ambitious. Slightly chaotic. Completely worth it.
Day 2: Castles and Olympic Energy
We started the morning back at the Milan Duomo to finish what we hadn’t explored the day before.
We opted out of the guided tour and virtual reality experience and instead did a self-guided visit through the interior spaces we had skipped. After the dramatic rooftop views the day prior, it was nice to slow down and notice the details — the stained glass, the quiet chapels, the crypt below. Doing it on our own allowed us to move at the kids’ pace, linger where they were curious, and keep things flexible.
From there, we walked over to Castello Sforzesco. We stayed outdoors, simply wandering the grounds and letting the kids explore the open courtyards. If we had more time, I would have loved to visit the Museum of Musical Instruments or the Ancient Arms collection — both feel like easy wins with elementary-aged kids.
Just behind the castle sits Parco Sempione, which is perfect for letting kids run off energy. There are wide paths and a small playground that would be ideal in warmer weather. It was chilly for us, so we kept moving — but it’s a great reset space if your itinerary needs breathing room.
By mid-afternoon, we shifted gears completely. We left for the Milano Rho Ice Hockey Stadium early, knowing the doors opened two hours before puck drop — which gave us plenty of time to explore the official Olympic store before the crowds arrived.
This is where pre-planning made all the difference.
Before the trip, I joined a few Facebook groups dedicated to Olympic logistics. That’s where I learned:
Some arenas were running out of food.
Train lines were extremely long after events.
Walking distances were longer than expected.
Because of that inside information, we:
Ate a solid meal before heading to the stadium.
Packed snacks.
Left the game three minutes before the final buzzer.
I am so glad we did.
The arena did, in fact, run out of food that evening. And with two tired kids, that could have shifted the entire experience. Leaving slightly early meant we avoided the long post-game train surge and were back at our hotel without stress.
Sitting in that stadium, surrounded by international fans, watching women compete on a global stage — it felt special in a way that’s hard to replicate. It wasn’t just a sporting event — it was a once-in-a-lifetime moment for our kids, a memory they’ll carry forever, shaped by careful planning, patience, and a little parental strategy.
And honestly? That careful balance is what let us truly savor it together.
Day 3: Family Photos & Scenic Train to Zermatt
We started the morning with something a little different: family photos in the park. Airbnb now offers an “Experiences and Services” section, and we booked a local photographer to capture our vacation before the whirlwind of travel began. It was such a special way to start the day — relaxed, fun, and a memory we’ll treasure forever.
By late morning, it was time to board the train to Zermatt. We had purchased tickets online in advance to secure our seats, but one critical lesson: grab food before you board. Our transfer in Visp was less than four minutes long, meaning we had to sprint between platforms. The station lines for snacks and meals were long, and we didn’t build in enough buffer time. Lesson learned: stock up ahead of time.
We settled into the train and watched the scenery shift from rolling countryside to snow-dusted Alps — it was pure anticipation for what was to come.
Once we e arrived in Zermatt, we headed straight to the Tourist Information Office, attached to the train station. This is where you can:
Pick up your Wolli Card for the kids — a 5 CHF deposit (refunded when returned). You must register online before arriving, as it unlocks special perks like free ski rentals for kids with each paying adult and access to the Gornergrat Railway.
Print your lift tickets for the week at the same office.
Next, we picked up rental skis at Azzurra Sport. With the Wolli Card, the kids’ skis and boots were free for each paying adult — we only paid for helmet rentals. This made getting outfitted simple and cost-effective, and having everything so close to the station made life much easier with two kids in tow.
After settling into our Airbnb, we wandered the winding streets of Zermatt’s Old Town. Dinner plans were a minor adventure: I accidentally booked a 16:30 reservation instead of 18:30, so we wandered the charming streets in search of a last-minute option. We ended up at Walliserkanne, which had a mix of traditional Swiss dishes and a dedicated kids’ menu.
A key tip: during busy weeks — like our visit over European Spring Break and U.S. President’s Day week — always make mountain lunch and dinner reservations. Popular spots fill quickly, and wandering with hungry kids is never as fun as it sounds.
By the end of the day, we were finally settled, skis and lift passes ready for the next morning, and the Matterhorn looming in the distance promised a week of adventure ahead.
Day 4: First Day at Zermatters Ski School
Our first full day on the slopes began with Zermatters Ski School, and if you’re traveling with kids, a little planning goes a long way. On the first day, the meeting point is at the train station, which makes it easy to drop off your little skiers and their gear. One of the best features? The instructors store the kids’ skis and poles overnight, so you don’t have to worry about hauling them back to your vacation rental at the end of each day — a true sanity-saver for families.
While the kids were in ski school, the moms used PDS Sports Skiing Instructors. I highly recommend booking ski school and lessons well in advance, especially during high season or busy weeks. It ensures you get the times and instructors that best fit you and your kids’ needs.
By noon, the adults took a break for lunch at Chez Vrony — a quaint, picture-perfect spot perched on the mountain. Most of us skied there, while one mom opted to walk down because she wasn’t ready for the run. It’s accessible by foot, but with a guide it can still take at least 30 minutes. The food and views make it worth the effort.
After a full day on the slopes, we returned to Walliserkanne for dinner. I had already scheduled this reservation for the day, and it just happened to be the last place we could snag the night before — but it worked out perfectly. Their menu is vast and kid-friendly, making it easy to please everyone, from picky eaters to hungry adults.
Tips for Skiing in Zermatt with Kids
Navigating Zermatt’s slopes can be tricky, especially with little ones. Here’s what we learned:
First Day Logistics: On day one, you’ll meet the kids’ instructors at the train station. Afterward, Zermatters stores the kids’ skis, and you’ll meet instructors at Sunnegga funicular for subsequent days.
Ski Rentals & Storage: You can rent skis from one shop and store them elsewhere. Some locations let you rent and store in the same place, but rentals tend to be more expensive. Plan based on where you’ll access the mountain each day.
Sunnegga Funicular Lockers: Ski storage at Sunnegga is convenient — just 2 CHF per night, and easy to use with your lift pass.
Mountain Access: There are three main ways to get to the slopes — Sunnegga Funicular, Gornergrat Train, and Furi Lift. Heavy snowfall can sometimes force closures, and in our case, Sunnegga was the only accessible route for the first few days. Lines can be long, up to 30+ minutes, so plan accordingly.
Day 5: Ski School, Scenic Stops & Alpine Dining
The day started with the moms and kids back at Zermatters Ski School, getting more confident on the slopes. It was a beautiful morning, but navigating Zermatt’s mountain transport added a little adventure — we waited about 30 minutes in line for the Sunnegga funicular to reach the slopes. Even with the line, the views during the ride made the wait worthwhile.
By noon, the adults had a lunch reservation at Adler Hitta. The restaurant requires reservations in advance and kindly noted cancellations must be 24 hours prior. The cozy atmosphere and alpine charm made it a perfect mid-day break.
On the way back to Zermatt, we stopped at a charming champagne bar about 300 meters from the bottom of Trail 2. You can reach it either by skiing down or via a 20-minute uphill stroll from the town center. This rustic alpine hut has outdoor seating with cozy fur blankets, live music, and unbeatable views of the Matterhorn — it’s open daily from 11 AM to 7 PM. It was the perfect spot to unwind, toast to the morning’s skiing, and soak in the mountain scenery before heading to dinner.
Dinner that evening was at Spycher. With a mix of hearty Swiss cuisine and a lively atmosphere, it was the perfect way to wrap up a full day on the slopes, leaving everyone tired, happy, and ready for the next adventure.