From Milan to the Matterhorn
Our European winter adventure blended iconic art, Olympic energy, and unforgettable alpine views. From standing in front of The Last Supper in Milan to skiing beneath the Matterhorn in Zermatt, it was a week that balanced culture, logistics, and pure mountain magic. Here’s exactly how it unfolded — with kids in tow.
Day 1: Arrival in Milan & The Last Supper
We landed in Milan knowing our entire first day revolved around one thing: seeing The Last Supper inside Santa Maria delle Grazie.
And if this is on your list, here’s the truth: securing tickets is the hardest part of the experience.
Tickets are released in quarterly blocks and they sell out quickly — often within hours. I set an alarm for 4 a.m. our time to log in the minute they opened. You’ll select a specific timed entry slot, and that time is strict. Groups enter in small waves because the room is climate-controlled to preserve the fresco.
A few key things I learned:
Have an account created ahead of time on the official ticketing site.
Be logged in and ready before release time.
Have passport information available when booking.
If tickets are sold out, check every Wednesday around noon (Milan time) — additional small batches are often released.
If you prefer less stress, guided tour operators sometimes hold blocks of tickets, but you’ll pay a premium.
You need to arrive at least 30 minutes before your scheduled time. There is a separate ticket office/check-in building to the left of the church entrance — do not line up directly at the main church doors.
Inside that building:
You present your printed ticket (I recommend printing even if you have digital).
Every adult must show a passport that matches the ticket name.
If you booked a guided option, you’ll receive a headset device.
Bags are screened and large items must be stored.
You’re then escorted in timed groups through a series of climate-controlled chambers before entering the room itself. The buildup actually adds to the experience — it feels intentional and protected. Once inside, you have about 15 minutes with the painting. That’s it. And surprisingly? It feels like enough.
The room is quiet. Controlled. Focused. The kids stood longer than I expected. There’s something powerful about knowing you’re looking at something painted in the 1400s that has survived wars, humidity, and centuries of history.
One important tip: There is a small gift shop connected to the exit, but you cannot re-enter once you leave, and you cannot access it without a ticket. If you want something, buy it before walking out. I didn’t — and regretted it later.
From there, we shifted from quiet reverence to full architectural drama at the Milan Duomo.
We had pre-booked lift tickets to the rooftop terraces (highly recommend during busy seasons). Your time slot applies only to the elevator ride up — you can visit the cathedral interior before or after, even 1 day after.
If I were doing it again, I’d:
Arrive 60–90 minutes before terrace time.
Visit the cathedral interior and crypt first.
Then head to the rooftop 15 minutes before your lift slot.
Instead, we went straight up — jet-lagged but determined — and the marble spires against the sky felt almost unreal.
We ended the morning by wandering through Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, spinning on the bull mosaic for good luck.
After our spins, we took the elevator up to the top floor of the shopping complex for lunch at Maio Restaurant. The terrace view of the Duomo is incredible — you’re practically eye-level with the cathedral’s ornate marble details.
Even better for traveling families, the staff was incredibly welcoming with kids. Sometimes rooftop restaurants in major cities can feel formal, but this one struck a perfect balance: beautiful setting, relaxed atmosphere, and a memorable view that made the whole stop feel special.
It was the perfect pause before continuing to explore the city.
It was a full first day. Ambitious. Slightly chaotic. Completely worth it.
Day 2: Castles and Olympic Energy
We started the morning back at the Milan Duomo to finish what we hadn’t explored the day before.
We opted out of the guided tour and virtual reality experience and instead did a self-guided visit through the interior spaces we had skipped. After the dramatic rooftop views the day prior, it was nice to slow down and notice the details — the stained glass, the quiet chapels, the crypt below. Doing it on our own allowed us to move at the kids’ pace, linger where they were curious, and keep things flexible.
From there, we walked over to Castello Sforzesco. We stayed outdoors, simply wandering the grounds and letting the kids explore the open courtyards. If we had more time, I would have loved to visit the Museum of Musical Instruments or the Ancient Arms collection — both feel like easy wins with elementary-aged kids.
Just behind the castle sits Parco Sempione, which is perfect for letting kids run off energy. There are wide paths and a small playground that would be ideal in warmer weather. It was chilly for us, so we kept moving — but it’s a great reset space if your itinerary needs breathing room.
By mid-afternoon, we shifted gears completely. We left for the Milano Rho Ice Hockey Stadium early, knowing the doors opened two hours before puck drop — which gave us plenty of time to explore the official Olympic store before the crowds arrived.
This is where pre-planning made all the difference.
Before the trip, I joined a few Facebook groups dedicated to Olympic logistics. That’s where I learned:
Some arenas were running out of food.
Train lines were extremely long after events.
Walking distances were longer than expected.
Because of that inside information, we:
Ate a solid meal before heading to the stadium.
Packed snacks.
Left the game three minutes before the final buzzer.
I am so glad we did.
The arena did, in fact, run out of food that evening. And with two tired kids, that could have shifted the entire experience. Leaving slightly early meant we avoided the long post-game train surge and were back at our hotel without stress.
Sitting in that stadium, surrounded by international fans, watching women compete on a global stage — it felt special in a way that’s hard to replicate. It wasn’t just a sporting event — it was a once-in-a-lifetime moment for our kids, a memory they’ll carry forever, shaped by careful planning, patience, and a little parental strategy.
And honestly? That careful balance is what let us truly savor it together.
Day 3: Family Photos & Scenic Train to Zermatt
We started the morning with something a little different: family photos in the park. Airbnb now offers an “Experiences and Services” section, and we booked a local photographer to capture our vacation before the whirlwind of travel began. It was such a special way to start the day — relaxed, fun, and a memory we’ll treasure forever.
By late morning, it was time to board the train to Zermatt. We had purchased tickets online in advance to secure our seats, but one critical lesson: grab food before you board. Our transfer in Visp was less than four minutes long, meaning we had to sprint between platforms. The station lines for snacks and meals were long, and we didn’t build in enough buffer time. Lesson learned: stock up ahead of time.
We settled into the train and watched the scenery shift from rolling countryside to snow-dusted Alps — it was pure anticipation for what was to come.
Once we e arrived in Zermatt, we headed straight to the Tourist Information Office, attached to the train station. This is where you can:
Pick up your Wolli Card for the kids — a 5 CHF deposit (refunded when returned). You must register online before arriving, as it unlocks special perks like free ski rentals for kids with each paying adult and access to the Gornergrat Railway.
Print your lift tickets for the week at the same office.
Next, we picked up rental skis at Azzurra Sport. With the Wolli Card, the kids’ skis and boots were free for each paying adult — we only paid for helmet rentals. This made getting outfitted simple and cost-effective, and having everything so close to the station made life much easier with two kids in tow.
After settling into our Airbnb, we wandered the winding streets of Zermatt’s Old Town. Dinner plans were a minor adventure: I accidentally booked a 16:30 reservation instead of 18:30, so we wandered the charming streets in search of a last-minute option. We ended up at Walliserkanne, which had a mix of traditional Swiss dishes and a dedicated kids’ menu.
A key tip: during busy weeks — like our visit over European Spring Break and U.S. President’s Day week — always make mountain lunch and dinner reservations. Popular spots fill quickly, and wandering with hungry kids is never as fun as it sounds.
By the end of the day, we were finally settled, skis and lift passes ready for the next morning, and the Matterhorn looming in the distance promised a week of adventure ahead.
Day 4: First Day at Zermatters Ski School
Our first full day on the slopes began with Zermatters Ski School, and if you’re traveling with kids, a little planning goes a long way. On the first day, the meeting point is at the train station, which makes it easy to drop off your little skiers and their gear. One of the best features? The instructors store the kids’ skis and poles overnight, so you don’t have to worry about hauling them back to your vacation rental at the end of each day — a true sanity-saver for families.
While the kids were in ski school, the moms used PDS Sports Skiing Instructors. I highly recommend booking ski school and lessons well in advance, especially during high season or busy weeks. It ensures you get the times and instructors that best fit you and your kids’ needs.
By noon, the adults took a break for lunch at Chez Vrony — a quaint, picture-perfect spot perched on the mountain. Most of us skied there, while one mom opted to walk down because she wasn’t ready for the run. It’s accessible by foot, but with a guide it can still take at least 30 minutes. The food and views make it worth the effort.
After a full day on the slopes, we returned to Walliserkanne for dinner. I had already scheduled this reservation for the day, and it just happened to be the last place we could snag the night before — but it worked out perfectly. Their menu is vast and kid-friendly, making it easy to please everyone, from picky eaters to hungry adults.
Tips for Skiing in Zermatt with Kids
Navigating Zermatt’s slopes can be tricky, especially with little ones. Here’s what we learned:
First Day Logistics: On day one, you’ll meet the kids’ instructors at the train station. Afterward, Zermatters stores the kids’ skis, and you’ll meet instructors at Sunnegga funicular for subsequent days.
Ski Rentals & Storage: You can rent skis from one shop and store them elsewhere. Some locations let you rent and store in the same place, but rentals tend to be more expensive. Plan based on where you’ll access the mountain each day.
Sunnegga Funicular Lockers: Ski storage at Sunnegga is convenient — just 2 CHF per night, and easy to use with your lift pass.
Mountain Access: There are three main ways to get to the slopes — Sunnegga Funicular, Gornergrat Train, and Furi Lift. Heavy snowfall can sometimes force closures, and in our case, Sunnegga was the only accessible route for the first few days. Lines can be long, up to 30+ minutes, so plan accordingly.
Day 5: Ski School, Scenic Stops & Alpine Dining
The day started with the moms and kids back at Zermatters Ski School, getting more confident on the slopes. It was a beautiful morning, but navigating Zermatt’s mountain transport added a little adventure — we waited about 30 minutes in line for the Sunnegga funicular to reach the slopes. Even with the line, the views during the ride made the wait worthwhile.
By noon, the adults had a lunch reservation at Adler Hitta. The restaurant requires reservations in advance and kindly noted cancellations must be 24 hours prior. The cozy atmosphere and alpine charm made it a perfect mid-day break.
On the way back to Zermatt, we stopped at a charming champagne bar about 300 meters from the bottom of Trail 2. You can reach it either by skiing down or via a 20-minute uphill stroll from the town center. This rustic alpine hut has outdoor seating with cozy fur blankets, live music, and unbeatable views of the Matterhorn — it’s open daily from 11 AM to 7 PM. It was the perfect spot to unwind, toast to the morning’s skiing, and soak in the mountain scenery before heading to dinner.
Dinner that evening was at Spycher. With a mix of hearty Swiss cuisine and a lively atmosphere, it was the perfect way to wrap up a full day on the slopes, leaving everyone tired, happy, and ready for the next adventure.
Day 6: A Snowy Day, Old Town Wandering & Family Pizza Night
The kids were back at Zermatters Ski School for their third day, excited to keep building their confidence on the slopes. The weather, however, was not quite my ideal alpine forecast. Instead of the bright, sunny views we had hoped for, the morning brought light snowfall and low visibility, which made me a little nervous about skiing conditions.
Our original plan for the day was something we had been really looking forward to — skiing over the border into Italy for lunch at Chalet Etoile in Cervinia. Unfortunately, the pass from Zermatt to Cervinia was closed due to strong winds, which meant our Italian lunch plans would have to wait for another trip.
With the kids happily settled in ski school and the weather not quite ideal for exploring the slopes, I decided to spend the day wandering through Old Town Zermatt. It turned out to be the perfect way to slow down and experience the village. The streets are lined with charming coffee shops perfect for a latte and croissant, along with beautiful boutiques, souvenir shops, and historic buildings. I even stopped into the local church while exploring the narrow, snow-covered streets.
For lunch, I treated myself to a quiet and cozy break at Lusi Brasserie inside the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof. It was the perfect spot to warm up and relax for a bit. I enjoyed a poke bowl and a glass of wine, appreciating the peaceful atmosphere and a slower pace for the afternoon.
Once my husband and kids finished skiing for the day, we spent the next couple of hours sledding on the hill near our vacation rental, which ended up being one of the kids’ favorite activities of the trip. After freshening up, we headed back into Old Town for hot chocolate before dinner.
That evening we ate at Grampi’s, which turned out to be incredibly kid-friendly. The kids loved the personal-sized pizzas, while the adults enjoyed classic Italian dishes. After dinner, we decided the kids needed to experience one more traditional Swiss treat — chocolate fondue. We stopped by Whymper Stube, a cozy and classic Swiss restaurant known for its fondue. Sitting around a warm pot of melted chocolate and dipping fruit and treats into it was the perfect sweet ending to the night.
It was the perfect relaxed family evening to end a snowy day in Zermatt — proof that even when plans change, the day can still be full of memorable moments.
Day 7: Tobogganing on the Gornergrat & A Night Out in Zermatt
On our final full day, we decided to do something a little different and took the kids up the Gornergrat Railway for a morning of tobogganing (sledging). The scenic train ride alone is worth the trip, climbing high above Zermatt with incredible views of the surrounding peaks and, of course, the Matterhorn.
One helpful tip for families: the Wolli Card allows kids to ride the railway for free, which is a great perk. Another important lesson we learned the hard way—do not bring your ski lift pass with you. The Gornergrat Railway is also used by skiers accessing the slopes, and the scanners can accidentally register a ski day on your pass. I had mine tucked in my ski suit pocket and quickly realized the mistake, so I left it with the front desk to avoid using up one of my lift days.
Kids must come prepared in full ski gear—ski suit, ski boots, and a helmet, which I was very thankful for once we started sledding.
Once you arrive at Rotenboden, you select your sled from a small shed right next to the train station. After grabbing your sleds, you hop back on the Gornergrat Railway for one quick stop to Riffelberg, where you access the start of the sledding run.
The run from Rotenboden to Riffelberg is a fun, fast toboggan track, and it honestly looks a bit like a small ski slope. I believe skiers sometimes share sections of it, so it’s important to stay aware of others on the run. Before starting, we let several people go ahead of us so we could watch and figure out how to manage the sleds.
Sledding here is very different from what we’re used to in the U.S.. Instead of just sitting and sliding, you actually have to steer and maneuver the sled through turns. The trick is to lean your body in the direction you want to turn and drag that same foot in the snow to guide the sled.
Our first few turns were… not graceful. We wiped out pretty quickly, which made me extremely grateful the kids were wearing helmets. But after a run or two, we started getting the hang of it. By the second ride, everyone was confidently navigating the turns and laughing the entire way down.
In total, we did four runs, and each one got more fun as our confidence grew.
Afterward, we rewarded ourselves with a well-earned break at the outdoor bar near the Rotenboden train stop, enjoying Aperol spritzes for the adults, hot chocolate for the kids, and a few snacks—all with the Matterhorn perfectly in view. It was one of those classic alpine moments that felt straight out of a postcard.
That evening, we arranged for a young ski instructor to watch the kids, which gave the adults a rare opportunity for a night out. We had dinner at Le Gitan, which I highly recommend—definitely make reservations in advance. The food and service were excellent and it was a wonderful way to enjoy a relaxed, grown-up meal after several busy days on the mountain.
After dinner, we decided to explore a couple of Zermatt’s hidden speakeasies, which turned out to be one of the most fun surprises of the trip.
The first is tucked inside the cheese shop Chez L’Ami Sami. To enter, you literally open a refrigerator door filled with cheese, which leads you into a retro dance club hidden behind it. It’s quirky, unexpected, and such a fun experience.
Our second stop was another hidden lounge inside Chinese Garden. When you walk in, there’s a door immediately to your right—open it and head down the stairs, and you’ll find a beautifully decorated speakeasy lounge. The space is cozy and stylish, with small lamps, fringe chandeliers, and a creative cocktail menu. Even the bathroom is part of the experience, decorated with eclectic mannequins that make it feel like a scene from a movie.
It was the perfect mix of family adventure during the day and a fun adults-only night out, and a memorable way to wrap up our time in Zermatt.
Day 8: From Zermatt to Zurich & A Soccer-Filled Afternoon
Day eight marked the end of our time in Zermatt and the start of the next leg of our trip in Zurich. We checked out of our vacation rental and made a quick stop at the Tourist Information station to return the Wolli Card and collect our deposit. Before heading to the train, we picked up a few souvenirs and Christmas ornaments, which have become one of our favorite ways to remember trips as a family.
We also stopped by Coop, the local grocery store, to grab some food and snacks for the 11:00 AM train to Zurich. The train ride is about three hours, and like most Swiss trains, it’s comfortable, scenic, and an easy way to travel between cities.
One helpful tip when traveling by train in Switzerland: make sure to place your luggage in the designated luggage storage areas on the train, not in the aisle or random open spaces. If it’s not stored properly, the train staff will come find you and either ask you to move it next to your seat or have you walk through the train cars to find an open luggage rack. Our train happened to be very full, so we had to shuffle things around to make space for our bags before settling in for the ride.
When we arrived at the Zurich train station, we grabbed an Uber to our next vacation rental. After quickly dropping off our bags, we headed straight out again to visit the FIFA Museum. We had to squeeze it in that afternoon because the museum is closed on Mondays, and we were leaving the following day.
We spent about two hours at the museum, which felt like the perfect amount of time with an 8-year-old and a 6-year-old. While there are plenty of exhibits about the history of soccer and the World Cup, the kids’ favorite part was easily the interactive soccer simulation area.
This section has five or six different soccer stations, where kids can test their skills by knocking down pins, dribbling between poles, kicking balls into specific targets, and other challenges. Our absolute favorite was the life-size human pinball machine, where you kick a soccer ball toward different pinball-style targets to score points.
One important tip: keep your ticket with you and pay attention when scanning it at each station, because each activity can only be done once per ticket. At the end, we decided to make the pinball game a little competition — girls versus boys — and played it four times each. It was a blast and definitely where we spent the majority of our time in the museum.
The museum also has several other fun interactive experiences. There is a Commentary Cabin, a soundproof booth where visitors can record their own play-by-play commentary for famous soccer matches. The Referee Simulator allows visitors to test their decision-making skills by making calls in different match scenarios. There’s also a Selfie Station, an interactive screen that digitally places visitors on the stage of the FIFA World Cup or inside a virtual stadium. In addition, the museum includes a large-screen cinema that regularly plays soccer-themed films and documentaries as part of the exhibition.
After leaving the museum, we took another Uber into Zurich’s Old Town to walk around and explore. The cobblestone streets and historic buildings made for a beautiful evening stroll.
For dinner, we ended up at Zum Königstuhl. It felt a little fancy walking in with two young kids, but they were incredibly welcoming and even had a kids’ menu, which made it an easy choice for dinner. The food was excellent, and the relaxed atmosphere made it a wonderful way to end our first evening in Zurich.
Day 9: Zurich Zoo & A Final Evening in Old Town
Our final day started with breakfast at Babu’s Bakery & Coffeehouse, a cozy and popular spot in Zurich. The kids were thrilled with waffles and fresh fruit, while the adults enjoyed breakfast sandwiches and lattes—a great way to start our last full day of the trip.
After breakfast, we took an Uber to the Zurich Zoo, which opens at 9 AM. Our original plan was to spend half the day at the zoo and then head back to Old Town to explore for the rest of the afternoon. However, once we arrived, we quickly realized the Zurich Zoo is absolutely incredible. Between the thoughtfully designed habitats, beautifully landscaped walking paths, picnic areas, and seemingly a new playground around every corner, it turned into an all-day experience for us.
Around lunchtime, we stopped at Restaurant Altes Klösterli, located just outside the zoo grounds. One important tip: hold onto your zoo ticket, because you actually leave the park briefly to access the restaurant and will need your ticket to re-enter the zoo afterward.
After lunch, we continued exploring the zoo, discovering more exhibits, playgrounds, and even a large zipline area for kids. We were especially excited to see animals that we don’t typically see at zoos in the United States, including hyenas, a Siberian tiger, a snow leopard, and a Himalayan brown bear.
One of my absolute favorite areas was the Insect Forest, which features over 1,000 insects, arthropods, and spiders from more than 10 different species. The exhibit allows for close encounters and even includes some endangered species, making it both fascinating and educational.
Another highlight was the Kaeng Krachan Elephant Park, an impressive and modern habitat designed specifically for Asian elephants and their complex social structures. The exhibit includes both indoor and outdoor viewing areas, allowing visitors to see the elephants interacting and moving throughout the large space.
The meerkat exhibit was another favorite with the kids. Watching them pop in and out of their burrows and run around their habitat was absolutely adorable.
Before we knew it, we had spent nearly the entire day at the zoo. By the time we finished exploring most of the exhibits, it was 5:00 PM, and we were practically closing the place down. We were honestly surprised by how much time we spent there, but it ended up being one of the most enjoyable and memorable parts of our time in Zurich.
After leaving the zoo, we quickly took an Uber back to Old Town to find a traditional Swiss dinner for our final evening. We ended up at Swiss Chuchi Restaurant, where we enjoyed classic Swiss fondue. It was another great restaurant that was very kid-friendly, making it a perfect last dinner for the whole family.
After dinner, we spent some time walking through Old Town one last time, picking up a few final gifts and souvenirs, including Swiss chocolate for the kids to bring back and share with their classmates at home. It was a sweet way to wrap up an unforgettable trip.
Reflections from the Road: Why We’ll Always Say Yes to Zermatt
Zermatt wasn’t just another stop on our European adventure—it felt like stepping into a storybook. From the iconic Matterhorn peeking through the clouds to the quiet charm of the car-free village, every moment reminded us why family travel is about both adventure and slowing down to enjoy the view.
We’ll always say yes to Zermatt because it offers something for everyone: the kids thrived at ski school and sledding runs, discovering confidence and joy on the slopes, while the adults found moments of peace wandering through Old Town cafés, boutiques, and cozy alpine restaurants. The combination of snowy mountain adventures and charming village life is unmatched.
The memories that stand out aren’t just the postcard-perfect scenery—they’re the laughs on the Rotenboden sledding run, the friendly chaos of the FIFA Museum’s soccer simulations, and the simple joys of hot chocolate in a quiet café after a day exploring. Zermatt reminded us that family travel isn’t just about the itinerary, it’s about creating moments that make everyone smile, learn, and grow together.
No matter how many times we return, we know Zermatt will continue to inspire awe, excitement, and connection—and we’ll always say yes to coming back.
Still on Our Bucket List: What We’ll Be Back For
Skiing the Italian Alps – We loved skiing Zermatt, but the thought of crossing the border into Italy to ski Cervinia is still on our list. A sunny day with clear views from the Matterhorn to Monte Rosa would be incredible.
Chalet Lunches in Italy & Switzerland – From a rustic alpine hut with hot chocolate to a scenic terrace with Italian fare, these mountain lunches are a must-do. Next time, we want to make it to Chalet Etoile for a full Italian alpine experience.
Zermatt & the Matterhorn – We still dream of experiencing the Lein Matterhorn Glaciers, where you can see 14 glaciers spanning three countries. A clear day for this panoramic view is high on our list.
More Milan Museums – We only scratched the surface during our first trip. Some top picks for our next visit include:
Triennale Milano Design Museum (opens at 10:30 AM) – Showcases Italy’s modern design, architecture, and contemporary creativity in a curated, museum-style setting. There’s even an interactive design lab for kids (check the weekend workshop schedule).
Leonardo da Vinci Museum of Science & Technology (opens at 9:30 AM) – A large, interactive museum focused on science, engineering, and Leonardo’s inventions. Kids will love the hands-on experiences with real train cars, airplanes, and interactive science exhibits. Warm, spacious, and full of fun.
Pinacoteca di Brera – A must for art lovers; features Renaissance and modern works in an elegant setting.
Christmas Markets & Seasonal Fun – Returning in December would add festive lights, Swiss chocolate tastings, and holiday markets that the kids would adore.
Pro Tips for Italy & Switzerland with Kids
Train Travel – Always store luggage in designated areas on Swiss and Italian trains. If it’s not, staff may redirect you or make you hunt for a spot car-to-car. High season = full trains, so plan ahead.
Ticketing & Reservations – For Milan’s The Last Supper, the Duomo rooftop, ski rentals, and alpine restaurants, book early. Timed entries and reservations are strictly enforced.
Local Currency – Italy: Euros (€), Switzerland: Swiss Francs (CHF). Many places accept cards, but having cash for small shops, markets, or train stations is handy.
Weather Awareness – Alpine weather changes quickly. Check lift and pass conditions daily. If a pass is closed (like Zermatt → Cervinia), have a backup plan for village exploration or local activities.
Snacks & Meals – Carry small snacks for trains, long museum visits, or ski days. Kids get hungry fast, and lines or closures can make unplanned meals stressful.