A Winter Escape: Skiing the French Alps and Exploring Geneva
From the peaks of Méribel to the streets of Geneva, this winter getaway was all about balance — adventure, culture, and a touch of luxury. What started as a 40th birthday ski trip turned into a whirlwind through alpine towns, scenic train rides, and European flavors. Whether you're planning your own ski holiday or just dreaming of fondue and mountain views, this itinerary blends charming city stops with high-altitude excitement.
Day 1: Arrival in Lyon + King’s Day Pastries in Old Town
In January, we planned a kid-free European ski trip to celebrate my husband’s 40th birthday — with stops in Lyon, Méribel, and Switzerland. Flying into Lyon from New Orleans gave us the best mix of schedule and airfare, even though it wasn’t directly in the Alps.
Our flight landed around 10 a.m., and thanks to a tip from our vacation rental host, we used LuggageHero to store our bags at Hotelo until check-in. It was quick, affordable, and made it so much easier to explore without being weighed down.
Our vacation rental was in the Vieux Lyon district — the pedestrian-friendly Old Town nestled along the Saône River — so we spent the afternoon exploring cobblestone lanes and local pastry shops. It also happened to be King’s Day (Epiphany), so naturally, we had to try the traditional Galette des Rois — a flakey, almond-filled pastry with a hidden charm inside. (Whoever finds it is “king” for the day.) As New Orleanians, we loved experiencing this French tradition at the source. Back home, King’s Day kicks off weeks of Carnival season, so getting to celebrate it in Lyon — with the original version of the pastry — felt like a special full-circle moment.
We wandered through charming squares and hidden courtyards, window-shopped antiques and books, and took it slow to soak up the atmosphere. For dinner, we settled in at Bouchon Les Lyonnais, a cozy and classic spot for traditional Lyonnaise cuisine. After a long day of travel and pastry sampling, an early dinner was perfect.
Day 2: Views from Fourvière, City Squares & a Medieval Feast
Our only full day in Lyon started with a ride on the Fourvière funicular, which climbs to the top of the hill for spectacular views over the city. We bought tickets directly at the Vieux Lyon - Cathédrale Saint-Jean metro station and were at the top in minutes.
At the summit sits the magnificent Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, often called a "Marian fortress." Its intricate mosaics, stained glass, and soaring domes are stunning — and free to visit (except Sunday mornings). From the esplanade, the view across the city is one of the best we’ve ever seen.
Just nearby is the Metallic Tower of Fourvière, Lyon’s mini Eiffel Tower. While it’s not open to the public, you can get great views of it from Place Bellecour down below.
Behind the Basilica, we followed the trail through Parc des Hauteurs and descended via the Rosary Garden, a peaceful 20-minute walk with spiritual and scenic touches — think vine-covered pathways, garden nooks, and panoramic overlooks.
Back in Old Town, we made our way north through Place des Terreaux, stopping to admire the impressive Bartholdi Fountain and the surrounding classical architecture: City Hall, Saint-Pierre Palace, and the Fine Arts Museum all within view.
By the afternoon, we reached Parc de la Tête d'Or, Lyon’s massive urban park. If you’re visiting with kids, this place is a dream: there's a zoo, playgrounds, and even paddle boats. For us, it was a perfect place to pause, people-watch, and stretch our legs under century-old trees.
We ended the day in true celebration mode: pre-dinner cocktails at Le Florian, where the Santa Ana Gin was a favorite among the guys, followed by dinner at the unforgettable La Nef des Fous. The place is like dining inside a whimsical medieval dream — mismatched chairs, eccentric decor, and even a king’s throne at our table. It was quirky, delicious, and totally worth it.
After walking most of Lyon in one day, we were more than ready for bed — and to start our ski adventure the next morning.
Day 3: A Scenic Drive to the Alps + Settling into Méribel
We had a leisurely morning as we checked out of our vacation rental in Lyon and grabbed a light breakfast before our private driver from Alps2Alps arrived. They picked us up directly from our lodging and dropped us off at our next — a vacation rental in the center of Méribel. The whole process was seamless and stress-free, allowing us to sit back and enjoy the scenic 3-hour drive through the French Alps.
When deciding where to base ourselves for the ski portion of the trip, we chose Méribel for several key reasons. While Les Trois Vallées is home to world-renowned resorts like Courchevel and Val Thorens, Méribel struck the perfect balance for us. Located centrally within the ski domain, it provides ideal access to all of the interconnected pistes, making it easy to explore multiple valleys in one day. We didn’t want to feel locked into one area, and Méribel’s location meant we could ski over to Courchevel for lunch or hit Val Thorens for fresh powder without any logistical hassle.
But it wasn’t just about convenience — Méribel also has charm. Unlike some of the more modern, purpose-built resorts, Méribel has retained its traditional Savoyard chalet-style architecture, with wood-clad buildings that blend into the alpine landscape. That mountain village atmosphere made it feel cozy and authentic rather than overly commercial. It also offered a lively après-ski scene without being too over the top — a win-win for our adults-only group.
Once we arrived, we checked in and immediately picked up our gear from Chamois Sports, which was less than three minutes from our vacation rental. Lift tickets and ski rentals in Europe are surprisingly affordable compared to the U.S., which made the experience even better.
Before dinner, we stopped by L’Abreuvoir, a local favorite with a relaxed vibe, great cocktails, and a buzzing après-ski crowd. The bar had a rustic alpine feel — the perfect place to toast the beginning of our ski adventure.
We followed drinks with an early dinner at La Fromagerie, a hidden gem tucked beneath a cheese shop. The restaurant specializes in traditional Savoyard dishes like raclette, fondue, and tartiflette, served in a warm, wood-paneled dining room that felt like a secret mountain lodge. It was the perfect intro to the alpine food scene and set the tone for the cozy ski days ahead.
Day 4: First Ski Day – Exploring Méribel & Lunch in Courchevel
This was our first full day on the mountain, and we were lucky enough to have a vacation rental located just steps from a ski lift — making it incredibly easy to be geared up and on the slopes by 9 a.m. We spent the day getting our bearings, learning the layout of Méribel, and soaking in the stunning alpine views. With every lift and run, we paused often to snap photos and take it all in — the scenery here is truly breathtaking.
For lunch, we had booked a reservation in advance at La Soucoupe in Courchevel — widely considered one of the best on-mountain restaurants in the entire Three Valleys. La Soucoupe is known for its cozy, chalet-style atmosphere and exceptional grilled meats, prepared over an open wood fire. Pierre, a former butcher, and his wife Anne-Laure hand-select each cut of French and international meats, ensuring impeccable quality and flavor. Yes, prices are high (as they are throughout the region), but the quality, service, and panoramic mountain views more than justify it.
After a leisurely and indulgent lunch, we hit the slopes for one final run before the lifts closed around 4:30–5:00 p.m. Back at the vacation rental, we took time to unwind, rest our legs, and warm up.
That evening, we decided to return to L’Abreuvoir, the bar we’d enjoyed the night before. The welcoming atmosphere, creative cocktails, and lively après-ski vibe made it the perfect spot to end our first ski day on a high note — relaxed, happy, and ready to do it all again the next day.
Day 5: Getting Lost on the Slopes & Making It to the Party
Our second day on the mountain came with a mission: explore as many new slopes as possible. There were four adults on this trip — three confident black-run skiers and then me, the blue-run enthusiast (with the occasional red when I’m feeling brave).
One thing to know if you're used to skiing in the U.S.: slope markings in Europe aren’t always as intuitive. Trails can be poorly labeled or change names mid-run, and the maps can be tricky to interpret. I learned this the hard way.
After taking a lift up, the others decided to tackle a black run. I wisely opted for the blue route down — or at least, I thought I did. Whether it was my novice map-reading skills or simply the signage, I ended up skiing my way to the completely wrong side of the mountain. While my group finished the run together and regrouped near the same lift, I was standing alone somewhere unfamiliar, with no direct way back to Méribel.
Cue panic. As someone still fairly new to skiing — and with a big lunch reservation looming — I had a mini meltdown when I realized I’d need to take at least three different lifts to make it back. The alternative? A three-hour bus ride around the mountain. Not happening.
After a few tears, a deep breath, and some helpful advice from a local skier, I pieced together a route. I managed to zigzag across the mountain and — miraculously — arrived back in Méribel just in time for our lunch reservation at La Folie Douce.
And let me tell you, it was so worth the stress.
La Folie Douce Méribel is part alpine restaurant, part open-air party. It’s loud, wild, and theatrical — complete with dancers, live singers, and musicians that keep the energy high throughout your meal. It’s where après ski kicks off while you're still eating. Yes, the drinks are pricey (easily double the resort average), but the vibe is unmatched. It’s less of a meal and more of an experience — dancing in ski boots included.
After lunch and a bit of dancing on the snow-covered dancefloor, we hit the lifts for a few more runs before they closed for the day.
But we weren’t quite ready to call it. Still riding the high from La Folie Douce, we decided to keep the party going. After a quick change at the vacation rental, we headed to Le Rond Point (Le Rond) — one of Méribel’s most iconic après-ski spots.
Set halfway up the mountain, Le Rond is known for its live music, rowdy energy, and panoramic views, and it didn’t disappoint. We grabbed drinks, found a spot near the stage, and let ourselves settle into the buzz of the crowd. Between the fire pits, the familiar beat of cover songs echoing over the valley, and the general mountain revelry, it was the perfect way to end a wild and unexpected day.
Let’s just say... after all that, we slept well.
Day 6: Crossing into Val Thorens — A Whole New Vibe
After my solo mountain-crossing adventure the day before, I think the rest of the group got a little FOMO. So for Day 6, we all agreed to venture over to the other side of Les 3 Vallées — Val Thorens.
Val Thorens has an entirely different energy than Méribel. If Méribel is classic alpine charm, Val Thorens is its younger, wilder cousin. The vibe was noticeably more energetic — filled with snowboarders, a younger crowd, and a bit more of a party atmosphere. It felt edgier, livelier, and refreshingly different.
We skied across the mountain range and eventually dropped into a charming little square at the bottom of Val Thorens for lunch. There we found La Face Ouest, a casual spot with a large terrace and cozy heaters — perfect for a midday break. We sat outside, soaking up the atmosphere, and shared some delicious pizzas while people-watching and taking in the contrasting feel of this part of the resort.
After wandering around and exploring for a bit, we knew we couldn’t lose track of time. We’d learned the hard way how easy it is to get stuck on the wrong side of the mountain — and a 3-hour shuttle ride back to Méribel was not on our itinerary. So we gave ourselves a full hour to make the return trek.
Back in Méribel, we rested up before dinner, feeling the satisfaction of having conquered yet another part of the Three Valleys.
For dinner that night, we opted for something totally different — Indian food at Tsaretta Spice — and it turned out to be one of the best surprises of the trip. The food was unbelievably good: vibrant, flavorful, and perfectly spiced. It was such a refreshing change from the heavy alpine fare we’d been enjoying all week, and the upscale-meets-cozy atmosphere made it even better. Highly recommend for anyone wanting to mix things up during their ski holiday.
Day 7: Slowing Down & Savoring the Last Runs
Our final day on the mountain called for a slower pace and some soaking-it-in moments. We set out to explore a few untouched runs in Méribel, sticking mostly to the easier blues and reds — a perfect way to wind down after a packed week of skiing.
Since we had a special dinner planned for the evening, we kept lunch simple with a quick bite on the mountain. A no-fuss meal with a view was exactly what we needed before clicking into our skis for the last few runs of the trip.
By late afternoon, we returned our gear and bid farewell to our skis and boots — always a bittersweet moment. Afterward, we headed back to the vacation rental to warm up and rest before our final evening in town.
Later that night, we kicked things off with drinks and a few friendly rounds of pool at a local bar, reminiscing about the highlights of the week and already talking about coming back. Then we made our way to Le Resto du Savoy for a memorable farewell dinner. Cozy atmosphere, delicious food, and that relaxed-but-refined energy that sums up Méribel so well.
Pro tip: Definitely make reservations in advance for dinner in Méribel — it’s a small resort town, and most places book up quickly during peak ski season.
Day 8: Charming Annecy & a City Stay in Geneva
We said goodbye to our cozy vacation rental and kicked off the next leg of our European adventure with a scenic private transfer from Alps2Alps. The ride itself felt like part of the trip — winding roads, mountain views, and a peaceful pace that gave us a chance to relax and look ahead to our next destination: Geneva, Switzerland.
But before we crossed the border, we made a stop in Annecy, a small town that might just redefine your idea of “charming.” Nestled in the French Alps and often called the "Venice of the Alps," Annecy wowed us with its pastel-colored buildings, cobblestone streets, and flower-lined canals. It’s a great mid-way stop — plenty of space to stretch your legs, grab a treat, and soak in some old-world beauty without feeling overwhelmed.
We grabbed a quick lunch at a local pastry shop (because when in France, pastries are lunch), and strolled through the old town, admiring the historic architecture and vibrant market stalls. If you’re road-tripping through this region, we definitely recommend budgeting a few hours here — it’s the kind of place that makes you want to slow down and savor the moment.
After lunch, we were back on the road and soon arrived in Geneva, where we checked into the Eastwest Hotel — a small, boutique hotel with great walkability to restaurants, shops, and the train station. The rooms were stylish, the service friendly, and the location super convenient… but worth noting: it’s situated right on the edge of Geneva’s red-light district. While we never felt unsafe, it’s something to keep in mind, especially if you’re traveling with kids or prefer to avoid that kind of setting.
Once settled in, we treated ourselves to pre-dinner drinks at the Beau-Rivage Hotel — an elegant, historic property that feels like stepping into another era. The bar has sweeping views of Lake Geneva and the Alps, and the luxurious atmosphere gave us a moment to pause and appreciate where we were.
Dinner that night was at Kampai, an upscale Peruvian restaurant that offered a delicious change of pace. The menu was refined and flavorful, and the whole experience felt like a fun culinary adventure — a great reminder that Geneva is just as much about international influences as it is Swiss tradition.
Day 9: Lausanne Day Trip & A Taste of Geneva Elegance
For our final day in Switzerland, we took a quick and scenic morning train from Geneva to Lausanne — less than an hour away and a perfect day trip destination. With its lakeside setting and rich Olympic history, Lausanne offered a great mix of culture and fun for our last full day.
We started the day with breakfast at a cozy local pastry shop before heading straight to the Olympic Museum, which ended up being one of the most memorable stops of our entire trip. The museum beautifully captures the spirit of the Games with an engaging mix of history, storytelling, and interactivity. Some of the highlights included:
A full display of Olympic torches from every edition since 1936
Olympic medals dating back to 1896
Historic sports gear from legends like Jesse Owens and Usain Bolt
Interactive zones where you can test your balance, agility, and mental focus — great for kids (and fun for grown-ups too!)
After grabbing lunch in Lausanne, we headed back to Geneva by train for a relaxed afternoon of strolling and sightseeing. We wandered the elegant streets, did some light window shopping, and paid a visit to the Patek Philippe Museum — a must for design and history lovers. The museum showcases two major collections: an antique watch exhibit going back to the 16th century (including the world’s oldest known watch!), and the Patek Philippe collection, which begins with the brand’s founding in 1839. Even if you're not typically into watches, the craftsmanship and evolution of timekeeping were truly fascinating.
Later, we returned to our hotel to rest and freshen up before heading out for one last special dinner to close out the trip. We had reservations at Windows Restaurant inside the elegant Hôtel d'Angleterre. With its refined French cuisine, exceptional service, and panoramic views of Lake Geneva, the Jet d’Eau, and the Alps, it was the perfect finale to our Swiss adventure. The atmosphere was relaxed but upscale — just right for a memorable farewell meal.
Looking back, this trip offered a great mix of scenic towns, cultural stops, and relaxed travel days. From alpine views to interactive museums and some truly memorable meals, it was a well-balanced way to wrap up our time in Switzerland.
A Winter Escape: Skiing the French Alps and Exploring Geneva
From city charm to alpine thrills, this adults-only getaway blended culture, cuisine, and ski adventures to celebrate a 40th birthday in style. Starting in Lyon with pastries and panoramic views, the journey continued to Méribel for unforgettable days on the slopes — including scenic runs, mountain lunches, and après-ski parties. The finale brought lakeside elegance in Geneva, with a detour through Annecy’s fairytale streets and a Lausanne day trip for Olympic inspiration. A perfect mix of snow, cities, and celebratory spirit.
Still on Our Bucket List: What We’ll Be Back For
Lyon
Les Halles de Lyon-Paul Bocuse – We skipped this iconic food hall in favor of pastries and bouchons, but next time we’re going hungry.
More time in Parc de la Tête d'Or – It’s one of the biggest city parks in Europe, and we barely scratched the surface. Picnics, paddle boats, or just a lazy morning here are a must.
Méribel & The Three Valleys
Night skiing or moonlight snowshoeing – We skied hard by day but didn’t explore the nighttime mountain magic.
Stay in Courchevel for a night – We only scratched the surface during our ski day and lunch at La Soucoupe. Next time, we’d love to stay overnight, explore more of the slopes, and experience Courchevel’s après-ski and upscale charm after dark.
Annecy
A longer stop – It’s the kind of place you want to wander for hours, not just one afternoon. A boat ride or lakeside dinner is now on the wishlist.
Geneva & Lausanne
A dip in the Bains des Pâquis – Locals swim year-round in Lake Geneva — even in winter! Tempting for next time (or at least the sauna).
More time exploring Lausanne – We focused on the Olympic Museum, but the old town and vineyard views deserve a full day.
Pro Tips for Skiing France & Visiting Geneva in Winter (Without Kids)
Fly into Lyon or Geneva for alpine access – Both are scenic, low-stress options with easy transfers to the mountains.
Use a private transfer for ski resorts – Alps2Alps made door-to-door travel smooth and comfortable — especially with ski bags in tow.
Reserve on-mountain lunches in advance – The best spots (like La Soucoupe or La Folie Douce) book up early during peak season.
Après-ski starts early and goes late – Plan accordingly! A midday nap might be your best friend.
Layer like a pro – Mornings are cold, but ski afternoons and city strolls can warm up fast.
Trains in Switzerland are seamless – Clean, scenic, and often faster than driving — especially for day trips like Lausanne.
Dinner in Geneva starts early – Unlike Spain, many restaurants here open as early as 6:30–7 p.m. Perfect for a more relaxed evening.
What to Pack: Winter Essentials for France & Switzerland
Merino wool base layers (stylish enough for après-ski)
Hand and toe warmers for cold lift rides
Ski goggles and a rent the rest!
Universal power adapter (France & Switzerland use different plug types)
Stylish but weatherproof city boots (Geneva has cobblestones and slush)